Tempest - WORKING - I've actually been trying to get a new monitor installed into this game since I've decided to put it's original monitor in a Star Wars that's at my parents house. The monitor that I put in had two problems - 1) Poor High Voltage Unit, which worked but had a broken high voltage wire carrying 19KV which caused some arcing even with some insulation over it. The unit was replaced on 7/18/99. 2) Bad solder joints on the deflection board causing only the bottom half of the picture to show. Both problems have been resolved. The only non-critical thing to do is get the shield for the High Voltage unit which will cause the picture to be less shakey. The game is ready to be played.

Star Wars - WORKING - I finally finished fixing the monitor and installed the new Wintron flyback transformer. Seems to look pretty good. I adjusted the High Voltage to 19.5KV so the brightness level looks pretty good. I just need to fix my other Star Wars board.

Battlezone - WORKING. I got rid of hum. Now you can turn the game up pretty loud. The problem was actually in the Audio/Reg II board and not the power supply. The game no longer resets or blanks out, so I assume that resoldering some pins helped.

Star Trek - NON-WORKING Click here for Picture. Eta for this game may be by 7/31/99 - but not sure. I'm waiting for the schematics/manual, which should arrive any day now. The power supply needs to be fixed in order to fix the sound. The monitor is blowing a fuse, so I need to see what the problem is. The sound board works but is missing certain explosion sounds. I need to look at the manual to see which roms are responisible for the explosion generating sounds. If you're interested in some of the sound/speech mapping of this game Click here..

Space Invaders 2 (Cocktail version) - WORKING - This game works. Right now I'm doing a little bit of cosmetic work with the control panels. This game was fixed by replacing a ram chip (TMS4060). Symptoms of bad ram chips are usually garbage on the screen or game plays but has unwanted lines or garbage in it and resets often. Bad ram chips can normally be located on Early Midway 8080 processor boards by doing the following test. Remove all the proms from their sockets. This will cause the rams to fill up with data and produce a certain pattern of vertical lines on the screen. There should be 16 clean vertical columns on the screen. Each column consists of 16 lines. Only 4 of these lines are ON at a time and these are arranged in the following order: 1 line on, 2 lines off, 3 lines on, and 10 lines off. If the vertical lines are good hit the tilt (reset) switch till the patterns shift on the screen. Then check the vertical lines again. If there are lines missing or unwanted lines, you can usually identify the bad ram chip by grounding each pin on IC 7404 (Hex Inverter) at location D4 and looking at the schematics. When the correct line(s) appears or the bad line(s) disappear, then follow the address path to the *pair* of ram chips that particular pin goes to. Then by grounding pin 17 (The chip enable pin) on either ram chip, you can determine which ram of the pair is the bad one by looking at the screen again.

Star Castle - WORKING. You'll need to turn it on in the back until I get some convenient power strips to use. I replaced one of the power transistors for the Y deflection and I also put in a temporary replacement speaker. It sounds pretty good though.

Armor Attack - WORKING.

Death Race - NON-WORKING. Eta is unkown. This is an extremely rare game that was banned from production after about 500 games due to the controversy surrounding it. Click here. One of these games, working, are easily worth $2k or more. You will be seeing 3 of them!. I'll be starting with cleanup work and then go into reparing the electronics.

Cyberball 2072 - WORKING. I found a Lambda power supply for the main board that will do 5v up to 14 amps which is perfect. The original power supply was a Hitron. Lamba's are very good power supplies though and I would even consider it an upgrade. Both of the original speakers are blown - so I have put a temporary speaker in the game until I get two new ones.

Omega Race - NON-WORKING. Eta is 8/1/99. I've been able to test the board out on my Kurz Kasch TF-650 with the 368A card installed. It originally complained about 6 2114 ram chips. Now I have it down to 3 although I don't think the problem is actually the ram chips themselves now. Some I'm working on fixing a corroded part of the board by replacing all the caps and resistors. If anyone has seen this board before, it uses and older style of capacitor that looks just like a resistor. Color bands and all. Once I get the board fixed - I can actually play it with sound and everything on an oscilloscope. Neat huh?

Pac-Land - WORKING. I recapped the monitor, adjusted the picture and brightness a bit and then cleaned off the tinted plexiglass and picture tube. Cleaning a tinted plexiglass can make all the difference in the world. Nothing makes a picture more dull than a really dirty piece of dark plexiglass. Game looks good as new now.

Mappy - WORKING. I had to repair some broken traces on the neck pcb and put in new capacitors. The sound isn't too good though. Maybe I'll look at the problem when I'm done with the other games.

Q*bert - WORKING. The game was stuck in test mode and the sound was bad simply because of bad solder joints on the interface board and the Power Supply board.

Missile Command - NON-WORKING. Eta is unkown. I got this game at an auction for $11. I'll fix the monitor and then try to find a board and control panel. Maybe I'll put the Eta to 3 weeks - ready to roll. I put a bid on a bunch of non-working missile command boards on Ebay. Hopefully I'll be able to snag them and get this game up and running soon.